Bella Spello and Assisi revisited

Wednesday evening after the rain:

Thursday 20 September: I met Daniela at the Università per Stranièri at 7:45 and we drove to Assisi. We stopped at the Napoli bar for a coffee and piccolo (a very small cornetto). She dropped me at the train station and we agreed to meet up at Asssi later in the day. The trip to Spello was easy and the countryside very pretty. I arrived in sleepy Spello at about 9:00 everything except a few shops and a bar were closed. Of course, I went shopping on my way the mild hill.

Spello is the prettiest town. I was quickly corrected when I said, una bella città, because it is too small for a town but is a paese. I took a million photos and find it difficult to choose between them.

I popped into a few shops on the way up. They are all hadmade goodies and are exquisite, although some are very expensive, which I disocovered after I bought something but I loved it so much I got it anyway.

I walked to the first open bar and had a cappucino because the church and pinacoteca didn't open until 10:30 and I certainly had lots of time to kill

The Capella Tega frescoes were easy to photograph because someone had broken a window and I could put the camera inside.

The views everywhere were gorgeous, quite spectacular.

A view not quite so spectular. A very nice man took some photos of me and he was the one who corrected me that Spello is a paese not città.

I first visited San Andrea church. Very nice with some great frescoes and paintings by Perugino, which the priest was quick to point out. Below is the rather stunning ceiling in one of the side altars.

I finally went to Santa Maria Maggiore, oh, the frescoes are stupendous. The church is also very attractive. No photos allowed of course. I have a little booklet and some postcards. The frescoes that you are paying to see as well as the Pinacoteco are absolutely amazing. The floor is partially covered in glass/perspex and has the original Deruta majolica tiles still in place. After viewing this beautiful church I went to the Pinacoteca. Again, no photos allowed. I was given a handout, to be returned, in English, of the important works to be seen. Well, there are some amazings works of art. Some of the carvings, especially one Madonna and bambino from the 14C is strangely remiscent of American Indian carvings, a little bizarre.

I finally departed beautiful, quiet Spello around 12 noon and headed back the 600m walk to the station where I had a little time to kill and, yes, I had another coffee. Above is the tiny station. The only thing open is the bar and there is one taxi driver who spends his time driving between the town and the station trying to get a customer.

And so on to Assisi. Well, this town defeats me. The diary I bought the other day says it all. I paraphrase: Assisi ha rifiutato la mia richiesta di amicizia. Caught the bus up from the train station and for some strange reason got off too soon and so another long walk. After some time I found Santa Chiara but it was closed until 2pm. So down, down, down I went towards the Basilica San Francesco. There is to be a huge concert and conference tonight so there were cameras and police everywhere but there were also a squillion tourists. It was so crowded. I went down to the lower Basilica first, very nice but I was becoming churched-out.

I didn't visit the tomb but climbed up to the upper Basilica to the newer church. The whole structure is certainly beautiful and stupendous but it wears me out.

At 2pm I reached the piazza and saw a glorious new sculpture in front of the Temple of Minerva, specially for the special conference.

I stopped for lunch opposite it at a place named "Bar". A very nice toasted ham and tomato panino, water and a glass of prosecco. I then headed for Santa Chiara. It was packed. Lots of tours and difficult to move around. I actually went down to the crypt to see Clare's mumified corpse and somehow missed it; too many people. No photos allowed, again. It is a very spectacular church with some marvelous frescoes, paintings and a very impressive crucifix over the main altar.

While there I got a text from Daniela to say she had finished early and was at the carpark San Pietro and was leaving at 3pm. So I said okay, not knowing where it was. So off at a great pace, downhill fortunately, asking policewomen along the way: Dove il parcheggio San Pietro. I finally reached a car park and asked again, then I got another text from Daniela and she saw me and waved, thank goodness, I didn't know how I would get home otherwise. The next bus wasn't til 5:10. So, homeward bound, again she dropped me at the lift but fortunately, there was someone else going up too. After all this I rewarded myself with a drink at the lovely Del Sole. Got some nice nibblies too.

Then I headed home to my Mt Everest and very glad I was to reach it. It was a big day and I am officially exhausted now. Only four more sleeps and I leave Perugia. I cannot believe how quickly the time has flown.

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