Sunday 16 September: Bevagna and Montefalco

Today I had my tour with Daniela Moretti. What a brilliant day. The countryside is beautiful and as we passed Spello, Daniela said I must visit, so I've put it on my list. Our first stop was Bevagna, a lovely, quiet and flat town. So pretty. We strolled along the streets and visited La Cartiera a workshop that makes beautiful cotton and linen paper. The owner came in as we were looking and he took us through the process, absolutely fascinating. I bought a few small pieces just to remember the quality.

Paper pulp is placed on a frame that is then tipped out and dried.

Once dried the paper is smoothed and flattened using the stone.

We then went out the back of the workshop and saw the stocks:

Me being punished!!! Very very uncomfortable.

There is also a forno (outdoor oven) where they make the bread according to the medieval recipe and sell it during the festa.

We walked around the lovely streets with well-presented houses, all with flower boxes overflowing with flowers. Then we visited Chiesa di San Silvestro, a beautiful, plain church but with such a wonderful calming atmosphere.

After this, we crosed the square and viewed the exterior of Chiesa di San Michele. We didn't go in because mass was in progress. The exterior though is quite handsome with red marble and a stunning carved wooden door.

After spending some time enjoying both churches, we walked on and discovered La Cereria the candlemaking workshop. The candles are made of beeswax and smell delightful. The wick is hemp. They make small candles and ceri, which are the big church candles. The smaller twisted candles are made by twisting two together and the wick is double - forked - it gives a stronger light. Fascinating.

Candles drying, then will be twisted.

We then walked down to the little bridge over the Topino river. The river at this point was once used as a communal laundry. And so we left lovely Bevagna, known by the Romans as Mevania; the via Flaminia splits in this area and runs past Spoleto and also Spello. Our entire walk through Bevagna was accompanied by much detail from Daniela. I am proud to say that when the people in the workshop were speaking Italian I understood quite a lot of the conversation and was even able to contribute occasionally.

On the road to Montefalco...this is a very different town, quite hilly and more touristy. There was a biologo wine fare on also so many people in town. First we visited Chiesa Sant'Agostino a beautiful church with frescoes and a mumified pilgrim

We walked to the terrace to look at the stunning views.

Then decided to have lunch. Well, the food was great when it came but it took forever and we were starved. We had a glass of Montefalco rosso and two antipasti: salume and cheese with a fabulous prune jam and beef carpaccio with rucola, parmigiano and tomatoes and a freshly opened oil and bread. At long last we were satisfied. Next to us were a table of Aussie women, one from Brisbane and two from Sydney - the ubiquitous Aussie traveller.

After eating we visited Chiesa Santa Chiara della Croce a beautiful small church and we also got permission to enter the small chapel with absolutely stunning frescoes and the mumified body of poor St Clare. We spoke briefly to the nun and saw the little rosaries they make out of dried berries from the St Clare tree. I didn't take any photos as I did not think they would be permitted. But I have a brochure.

We then wandered down to where the wine tasting was and one of the representatives was Diogini wines from whom I bought a nice grechetto and passito. I told him I had recently visited with Gusto wine tours. And so we finally took our leave from Montefalco, heading we thought to visit Tempietto di Clitunno but fate had other plans. Even though both Daniela and I had checked times etc, the temple was open only alternate Sundays since July and this was the wrong Sunday. Nevertheless, Daniela had all the information to hand and explained everything about the tempietto - and no I do not remember it all. It is a paleochristian church set on the banks of the Clitunno. Beautiful location. So after a quick coffee up the road, we headed back to Perugia.

Daniela dropped me off at the lift at the bottom of the hill to go back to the centro. Oh my God I was petrified. I was in the lift by myself so I pressed the up button and prayed. It seemed to take forever but when I arrived I noted that Ristorante del Sole was just nearby so I rewarded myself with a vodka tonic. I got a plate of delightful nibbles with it - small fresh pizza slices and something like a toasted sandwich but not - it was very tasty. I was freezing 'cos I had stupidly left my fleece in Daniela's car and the terrace had a gale blowing. I quickly sent a text to Daniela to arrange to collect my jacket tomorrow. It is the only warm thing I have here.

And so to my 6th floor garret, happy to put my feet up and ponder my wonderful day with a very simpatica, intelligent and knowledgable woman. It was such a pleasure to spend the day with her.

 

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