Saturday 22 September: Well, the last couple of days have not been kind to me. Late Thursday I decided to upgrade the IOS on my iPad - don't ask why. It took more than one hour and then some things didn't work. Frustrated, I finally got to sleep about midnight but then woke at five. I was so tired, I couldn't think. I had booked a call on Skype with Mary for Friday but I didn't hear it ring and was so distressed I missed the call. Then I went to buy a box and post my things home. It took more than an hour and I just pray everything arrives safely. I have no confidence that it will. Why don't we learn all about the postal service in class. No-one speaks any English and my Italian is certainly not up to the intricacies of filling in postal forms, so fingers and toes crossed. Then I headed to the bus station to get my ticket for Monday and briefly met Ruari and Anne in the Rocca. I thought I didn't have time to stop for a coffee with them but am sorry I didn't make the time. Anyway, you buy your tickets on the bus and it leaves at 9:00, so early. Next I went to the hairdressers and got my pedicure, think I prefer the ones at home and a free touch-up manicure as a gift, fortunately, I had taken some chocolates from Augustus Perusia as un regolo for her. Also, my hair isn't as good as the first time but I was so tired by then I could hardly keep my eyes open and it was only 6pm.
I went looking for something specific but instead came across a gorgeous little erboristeria and bought some soaps. I panicked as I couldn't find my glasses - well, we both laughed, they were on my head. She said they say that means you are in love and I said speriamo - we live in hope. Next I went looking for plants and found a really pretty pink rose bush to give to Eva as a thank you and about 7pm I had an aperitivo, campari spritz, okay-ish. I also discovered the source of all the noise in the piazza, although I don't know who they are or why they are there.
I then came back to the apartment to rest and tidy up and wait until about 8:30 before going out to dinner. I was determined to try Osteria a Priori. When I got there the waitress said there was no room but the man behind the bar said I could have a table set up near the wine shelves, okay by me. I said to him I had una sala privata (a private room) and he laughed.
Table for one facing the wine shelves.
So glad I finally got there and they let me in as I had the BEST meal in all Umbria. I think they are a biologo osteria and they also sell artiginale beers, although I had Sagrantino. First, I had stracciata al tartufo nero estivo con bruschetta all'olio extra virgin oil, basically, scrambled eggs with truffles on toast but what a taste, magnificent.
I felt the need for meat so I ordered l'agnello dei Monti Sibillini con tartufo nero estivo e patate al forno - lamb with truffles and baked potatoes. Oh, wow, the lamb melted in your mouth and the spuds were good too, first meat apart from salume since I've been away.
I had this with water and a glass of Sagrantino Villa Mangalli Gualdo Cattaneo and very nice it was too. I was so full but decided on a dessert - homemade biscotti made with wine and pinenuts with a glass of passito. Terrific. I ate three biscotti but then gave up - there were three left and I forgot to bring them with me. Also the photo was blurred so no picture of my little biscotti in a sweet basket. I said that it was the best food in Perugia. The whole bill was €36.50 expensive for me but well worthwhile. So I came home satisfied that at least my day had ended well.
Now it is Saturday and things are improving. Eva came around this morning and I gave her the rose and she arranged for a ride to Rome at 10:30 from the apartment. So I now feel poorer but much much happier and don't have to worry about getting luggage in and out of taxis and on and off buses. Whew! Then I skyped Mary and apologised for missing yesterday's call. I am hoping I can talk to Bron sometime today or tomorrow. I headed to the little ceramics shop to pick up my order; so sweet, hoping Nigel can work out how to fix it to the wall. Next, I popped into a little shop and it was gorgeous. She makes handmade paper products, some of her things are wonderful but I only wanted some little things - do not want to do the post office route again. So I bought a couple of teeny weeny notes/envelopes beautifully decorated and a tiny photo frame. Then home to rest, rest and do this blog. But I have a couple of museums left to visit so, Perugia, here I come yet again.
I leave you with the night sky, taken from my balcony. I think I need a better camera. The moon was sharply crescent and so bright and yellow. In my photo it is a blob only.
Saturday contnues.....I finally contacted Bron but the conection was terrible amd kept dropping out. Will try again Sunday. I had just got to the bottom of the stairs when she texted me so I had to climb up again but it was worth it. I also had problems with my mobile it lost connection with networks and I had no service. It is finally okay again. I think Friday 21 was really Friday 13. After all this it was after 2:00 so I stopped at Sandri's for lunch. I had a very nice pasta. It was definitely fresh pasta, a bit like a penne with tomato and basil. I was starving and ate it all very quickly. Then I headed off for a wander. Found Palazzo Baldeschi but it wasn't open. Will try again tonight. I walked around the block popping into open shops. Perugia is having a fun run for L'Alzheimer today...I am in safe hands, then.
The piazza and corso were cordonned off in sections for the runners. After wandering around and around and not getting anywhere I visited Museo Capitolare and very pleased I did. It is the museum of the duomo San Lorenzo. Apart from the wonderful artwork there is an underground section that shows the ancient building and works from the Etruscan and Roman era. There were also some rather glorious illuminated manuscripts. A really worthwhile visit, better, I think, than the visit to the archeological museum
Entrance to the scary underground part.
In the mseum, There were two paintings of the square, painted in the 18C and not changed at all today.
Earlier I went by the post office and took a photo of the monstrous and exhausting building. I do hope the postal gods will look kindly upon me. I did say thank you very nicely to everyone there even though I hadn't a clue what I was doing or should be doing. Yes, it is a post office. Reminds me slightly of the old PO in Forest Place.
After all this I was extremely hot so stopped for a beer at Bar Centrale, forgot to say piccola and it was quite large. I heard English spoken next to me so naturally asked them about themselves. They have had a lightning trip: Venice, Florence, Pisa, Perugia and then Rome. But...they are staying at the Brufani. I said very posh and that I was afraid to go in as it looked so classy. They agreed but said it is a very nice hotel. They got a complimentary dinner last night, not too shabby.
Above is Ristorante and Pizzeria La Gabbia, located at the foot of my apartment building. They are so friendly there. If they are open, they always greet me, morning and night. Plus the food is quite reasonable and dead cheap.
Finally, heading home but stopped at the Fontana gelateria, not the least bit hungry but just because I could. I had pistacchio and nocciolo - the pistacchio was quite bland but the nocciolo was yummy. Lucky I have Mt Everest to climb, hopefully, I burn up calories each time I climb.
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