Tre Archi
Sant'Ercolano chiesa
After this, I headed for San Domenico basilica. What a vast cavern this church is but with wonderful frescoes, paintings and a stunning stained glass window behind the altar.
Next, yes, it was a BIG day, I went to the archeological museum. Well what a to-do! I have a card for one year, so I presented it at the ticket office, they sent me upstairs and they waved me in. After I had wandered around a woman came rushing up and asked for my card to photocopy it; they needed a record. Okay. I wandered around some more rooms and two women came up and asked for it again. Their computer is down and they must have a very strict accounting system. So I finished my walk around the museum and came for my card, finally, a man took it and photocopied it again - what a palaver!! Nevertheless, the museum was interesting and the jewellery is fantastic; I wanted to take half of it home with me. It would be more than fashionable right now.
The museum courtyard
Now for the exciting portion of my day. I went to San Pietro a Benedictine basilica. A fabulous church with AMAZING paintings and frescoes, wonderful carved wood and original majolica floor tiles in a tiny section of the sacristy. I saw an open door and went in...there was a seminarian talking to two German tourists and he invited me along. He explained the room - in Italian, although he had some English. There was a Caravaggio and a Raphael among many other paintings. It was the sacristy and it is a beautiful room. No photos allowed in the church, unfortunately but I have a little booklet. There are more beautiful paintings in the church, one of which is a wonderful Perugino and a huge painting of St Benedict and 300 Benedictine followers, depicting good and evil. But the pièce de résistance was when he led us downstairs to the original second century church; unbelievable.
Me and the view - I think the view would be better off without me.
And, all the places are locked up tight usually, so I was incredibly privileged to be able to visit them.
From San Pietro I walked down the hill and then back up another and rewarded myself with lunch. I had a grilled chicken salad and glass of Assisi grechetto and very nice it was too but it was my most expensive meal so far - €16.50. After resting, I went shopping. I visited Il Pozzo delle Ceramiche, a ceramics shop but she creates everything herself; designing, firing and painting. I have ordered an oval plaque for the front door. I hope it will be as good as it sounds. I pick it up Saturday. Then as I walked past via Ritornata, a narrow, winding street, I noticed plants and lights lining the side of the road. I followed them and found a delightful shop and bought a couple of gifts. She wrapped them so beautifully I fear I won't be able to part with them, but they have been allocated.
About 7.30 Daniela texted me to say she had my jacket and could we meet. We went to buy some notebooks for her son, who is back at school tomorrow after being in Dublin studying English. I then discovered Rastrellis, a fabulous shop that sells very interesting diaries etc, so will have to go back there. We then went to the supermarket. It was so funny to see an Italian woman shopping as I do: frozen veg, packet ham, tubs of ricotta...but then she doesn't like to cook. And so to home. Another big day tomorrow: I've got my cooking class and then I am returning to Assisi to see the basilica and Santa Chiara which I missed last visit. Just hope I don't get lost again and miss the bus 'cos my bus is at 17:10 and gets back after 6pm. I don't want to be wandering the countryside alone after dark...
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