Tuesday, 25 September 2012

Rome: un casino

Tuesday 25 September: I left lovely Umbria Monday morning after a disastrous dinner Sunday evening. Del Sole was recommended to me but I wish instead I had gone to a smaller friendlier restaurant for my last meal. I felt extremely unwell after having my antipasto and when my main meal came I could not even eat it. I had to apolgise and go. So €36 for an antipasto, main, wine and water of which I only had the antipasto, which was too rich, and the water. But fortunately I slept reasonably well and Eva came to take my luggage down in the lift. I walked down. Then Marcello drove me to Rome. He didn't speak any English and my Italian cannot sustain a conversation so I kept dozing. It was embarrassing 'cos I felt my head jerk and I would try to stay awake. Woke up properly as we left Umbria and entered Lazio. What a shock to the system Rome is after Umbria. It is hot, humid, noisy, crowded and quite dirty. The hotel is quite lovely although I didn't get the room I was expecting, which is disappointing. The view from my balcony is buildings, still I have a balcony.

I left the hotel and found the Spanish Steps easily. I came to the top part at the Trinità Monti church but it doesn't look as though it is open. I wandered down all the stairs and walked around. Went down via Condotti the street with all the expensive brand names. Oh to be a millionaire. I don't even dare go in the shops as I know I could afford nothing. Though I did notice through the window a gorgeous pair of Jimmy Choo sandals. I kept walking around the block and came to a quiet little street with a cool outside bar and stopped for an aperitivo. The bar was Ciampini.

Everything is much more expensive in Rome than Umbria so now I have to be careful of the cashflow. When I was in Piazza Spagna I saw the shop Frette where I had intended to buy my sheets and towels, so glad I bought in Perugia as the prices are five times more. But I did buy two linen facecloths at an exhorbitant price because I did want something from Frette.

I headed back to the hotel to tidy up a bit before going back to Piazza Spagna to do my walking tour. This was good but quite exhausting. The walking was okay but when we stopped oh that was hard work standing, he ticked us off if we tried to sit. But we covered a lot and I saw places I will go back to and he was informative. We saw the amazing Sant'Ignazio church, the Pantheon and the Trevi fountain. I asked how to get back to via Sistina and he said go down this street and turn right. Well I did up to a point and veered left instead and eventually found myself back where I started at Piazza Spagna, which was good. But going the easy way to via della Purificazione to my hotel was through very dark quiet streets at 7:30 at night so a little disturbing.

Spanish Steps - really Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti with church at the top.

Man selling roasted chestnuts - in this weather!
Pretty via Margutta
The amazing ceiling of Sant'Ignazio, a truly stunning church.
The Trevi fountain
I went to Osteria dei Barberini last night about 9:00 for dinner. Sat next to four Australians, very pleasant and friendly. I ordered bufalo di mozarella for antipasto not realising I would get an entire ball. Only managed to eat about one quarter - too much cheese. Next I had beef fillet in wine and peppercorns so delicious. Then I had dessert - panna catalan, yes, crème brûlée. I had the house wine, a nice red, and water too.

And so to bed about 11:00 and slept until late. Came down to breakfast about 8:30 and had it in the lovely garden.

Now I need to plan my day. I met a nice couple from Gloustershire at breakfast and they said to take taxis everywhere, less stressful and tiring. So I shall follow their instructions.